Why I wanted to go:
Although I was born in southern Taiwan, I’d never really explored Taipei meaningfully on my own. I grew up in the United States, and whenever I visited relatives, they’d shuttle me from the Taipei airport to my hometown of Chiayi. The truth is, I’m more of a southern Taiwanese than a cosmopolitan Taipei dweller, but the capital residents are still my people and I wanted to experience this city that was foreign to me. Not having explored it made me feel more American than Taiwanese—exploring Taipei felt like a real connection to my heritage.
How I balanced spontaneity and planning: I used to arrive in a foreign city without a single reservation. These days, I prefer to know where I can sleep, especially after a 14-hour flight in a completely opposite time zone. For this trip, I made a few hotel reservations, including a room I could occupy as soon as I arrived early in the morning. I also made sure most were fully refundable, in case I changed my mind. I had a general plan of the sights I wanted to see but I didn’t book anything; after all, part of the fun is heading out in the morning and seeing where my impulses take me.
The people I met: After a few days alone in Taipei, I felt the need to be part of a group—I love my solo time, but I’m a sociable person. I can speak and understand some Mandarin and Taiwanese, but it’s more natural for me to speak, think, and socialize in English. So I joined Like It Formosa, a free guided walking tour. My guide, Boan Wang, was a filmmaker who explained his own family history and gave insight into the highly charged political landscape. I left the tour with a deeper understanding of how politics in Taipei weighs on its citizens more than in the United States, partly because of Taiwan’s small size. After the tour, Boan shared a QR code with the group listing his favorite places to eat—a nice touch.
If I have just one piece of solo travel advice, it’s this: If you’re considering traveling alone, try to push past the hesitation and go for it. It’s more rewarding than anything you can imagine. I learned little things about myself, like that I enjoy taking funny photos. I like myself more and traveling alone makes me feel a bit invincible.
How I managed costs:
One of the best things about Taipei is that you can have a gourmet meal for about 50 cents. The night markets offer everything from appetizers to desserts, and many of the stalls have been listed in the Taiwan Michelin Guide. I ate like a queen. Whenever hotel breakfast was included, I would gorge on congee, sauteed vegetables, eggs, and fresh local fruits like lychee and guava.
I occasionally treated myself to luxury hotels because I wanted a hot, spacious shower and a comfortable bed. Even though I got exercise by walking most of the time, I also like to swim regularly because it helps relieve travel stress; I travel with swim goggles and book hotels with pools when I can.
Moments I felt safe/unsafe: Taipei is generally safe on the streets and late at night. There are street cameras everywhere and I never felt threatened. Taiwan’s government offers social welfare programs—like free healthcare—so safety nets exist and the poverty level is low as well.
That said, as a solo female traveler, I take precautions. When I go to bed, I block the door with a chair or a suitcase—I want to make sure no one enters my room by mistake. The way taxis, cars, and scooters weave around each other can also be scary, so I check traffic multiple times before crossing the street.
What I learned about myself:
I was surprised at how emotional I became in the days leading up to my return home. I grew attached to the city’s bustle, the morning smells from food stalls, and the chirping of tropical birds flying around.
I arrived alone in Taipei, without a clear idea of the neighborhoods that make up this vast urban landscape. Because I was alone, I had to fend for myself, navigating the city and learning the rhythm of the place that 2.5 million people call home. By the end, I wanted to call Taipei home too. I hadn’t realized how attached I could become to a place I’d never really lived in; I even picked a neighborhood where I could see myself living. A permanent move to Taipei wouldn’t happen overnight but I knew I’d be back.
My practical guide to Taipei:
- Eat: The night markets have the best cheap eats in town. Linjiang Street (Tonghua) Night Market serves up iconic dishes like Tien Hsiang Stinky Tofu, a local favorite recognized by Michelin. Eating dumplings at the original Din Tai Fung made me understand why the Taipei location set the standard. Plus, a table for one means you don’t have to wait long.
- Play: The best place in the world for Chinese history and art is the National Palace Museum. An audio guide is essential for navigating the 700,000 pieces that rotate regularly. Book a spot on the Like It Formosa walking tour to discover lesser-known stories, like how colonial influences shaped Ximen’s Red House, a historic theater with a bar perfect for a solo drink.
- Stay: When I need to unwind and reflect, I find a pool. At the Shangri-La Far Eastern, there are two outdoor pools on two floors, including the highest one in Taipei. I swam laps with a view of Taipei 101 then sipped a cocktail at the pool bar while listening to live music.
