I’m going to say it right away: spring is the best time to visit Prague. Having lived here most of my life, I can assure you that after the dark, damp winter, the city comes absolutely alive from mid-March, when magnolias and cherry trees start blooming, forsythias burst into bright yellow, and daffodils begin to poke through.
Locals rediscover their pretty parks and gardens, restaurants start setting up tables on the sidewalks, and for a few short weeks (until the first wave of summer heat in late June), everything seems right with the world. Here are some tips for making the most of the city in springtime.
Get Out on the Water
One of the best ways to see Prague in spring is by taking the ferry, which is part of the public transit system. The wooden boats start sailing in mid-March after being dry-docked during the cold winter months. For a budget-friendly sightseeing trip, hop aboard the P5 line. It departs from a dock below Výtoň (near Vyšehrad), on the Old Town side, south of the city center, and travels to the Smíchov district on the opposite bank of the Vltava. It’s a great way to enjoy a sunny day. Ferries depart about every 20 minutes and accept the same tickets as a metro or tram ride.
If you prefer to stay on solid ground, take historical tram line number 41. The above-ground ride on electric rails starts at Stromovka Park, near the Výstaviště exhibition grounds (north of the center). From there, you’ll travel via picturesque Malá Strana to Prague Castle. Note that you’ll need to buy a special ticket from the conductor on board (100 Czech crowns, about ).
Discover Hidden Gardens
Prague’s most beautiful green spaces are kept behind closed gates from October to March. But as soon as the first magnolia blossoms appear around April 1, city authorities finally unlock the doors.
There is a wealth of options for enjoying the city’s blooms. Among my favorites are the charming terraced Baroque gardens below Prague Castle, a must-visit for both the city views and the flowering gardens (note that there are many levels of stairs here). Just north of the castle are the Royal Gardens, dotted with playful Renaissance buildings. There are also the historic Wallenstein Palace Gardens, with its elegant fountains and grotto, and Vrtba Garden, a Baroque paradise with breathtaking views of Prague Castle.
Browse Outdoor Farmers’ Markets
Weekly outdoor farmers’ markets begin rolling out in neighborhoods around the city as early as the beginning of March. Among these Saturday morning markets, the largest and best, the Náplavka market, takes place along the Vltava riverbank, just below the famous Dancing House. Other good options include the market above the Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station in the Vinohrady neighborhood, and at Kulaťák square, above the Dejvická metro station, north of the center.
The markets are great places to buy seasonal picnic provisions, sample some street food, or just mingle with what feels like the entire city (it’s no exaggeration to say nearly everyone in the neighborhood shows up at these markets).
Burn Some Witches
Spring in Prague wouldn’t be complete without burning a few witches. Never heard of this tradition? Let me explain: on the evening of April 30, neighborhoods across the city reenact this ancient pagan tradition, known in Czech as Čarodějnice. Rest assured, no actual witches are harmed in the burning. Instead, people gather around large bonfires and burn an effigy or two of a twig witch. The fire is meant to ward off evil spirits and welcome the new season. You can catch a witch-burning ceremony at Kampa Park in the Malá Strana neighborhood. Another good ceremony takes place each year at Ladronka Park, west of the city center.
Exchange Kisses Under a Tree
The mood turns positively sentimental the following day, May 1st. It’s a public holiday, Labor Day, but it’s also known as Lovers’ Day, and it’s traditionally celebrated by kissing your partner under a blossoming cherry tree (a tradition said to bestow beauty and fertility). It’s a perfect excuse for couples to gather in the gorgeous Petřín Park and lock lips under the cherry blossoms. Don’t forget to bring a bouquet to lay at the statue of poet Karel Hynek Mácha, author of a romantic poem fittingly titled “Máj” (May). By the way, feel free to partake in this tradition any day of the year, not just May 1st; any tree will do.
Join the Easter Festivities
Prague’s annual Easter market on Old Town Square starts three weeks before Easter Sunday and runs through Easter Monday (a national holiday). The setting for the market is breathtaking, with landmark buildings like the twin-spired Týn Church and the town hall framed by colorful Easter bunting, though the market itself may be a little underwhelming. The stalls here sell mostly souvenirs, but a keen eye can still find traditional painted eggs and other Easter specialties. No matter, there are plenty of drinks to get into the holiday spirit. Beverages on offer include a green beer infused with seasonal herbs that appears around Easter (but curiously not on St. Patrick’s Day).
Czechs aren’t traditionally religious, but they pull out all the stops for the long Easter weekend. In addition to the markets, on Easter Monday, many locals take part in an unusual but harmless whipping tradition that often leaves visitors scratching their heads. According to tradition, boys gently whip girls on the bottom in exchange for a painted egg (or even a shot of homemade schnapps). Don’t panic. It’s all in good fun and is meant to symbolize fertility. This practice is more common in villages than in big cities like Prague, but you’ll still find pomlázka (holiday whips), made from willow branches and topped with colorful Easter ribbons, in shops around the city.
Immerse Yourself in High Culture
The annual Prague Spring music festival features three weeks of excellent classical music concerts in late May and early June, showcasing top local and visiting artists at venues across the city. The festival kicks off each year on May 12 at Prague’s Obecní Dům (Municipal House) with a stirring performance of Bedřich Smetana’s “Má Vlast” (My Homeland), taken from his famous Moldau Symphony.
This performance is usually sold out months in advance, sometimes even years, but the rest of the festival is much more accessible (check the festival’s website for tickets). Most years, you can find a live broadcast of the opening concert at Kampa Park.
