The temples of Kyoto are the influencers of their time. Built hundreds, even thousands of years ago, they led the way in the arts, architecture, landscape gardening, and even cuisine.
However, here’s the problem: there are temples everywhere you turn in Kyoto. In fact, this ancient city has nearly 1,600 temples, which can make deciding which ones to visit a bit intimidating. Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered. Here are my favorites—some are well known, some are off the beaten path, but all are truly incredible and worth your time.
If You Want to See the Grand Temples
Built dramatically on a cliffside without the use of nails, Kiyomizu-dera is the grandfather of Kyoto temples. Founded in 778 and rebuilt in 1633 by the third Tokugawa shogun, it is easily one of the most popular temples in Japan.
Don’t miss: Line up to drink a ladleful of spring water from the Otowa Waterfall, said to bring good luck. Then, head to the three-story pagoda for the best views of the temple. Kiyomizu-dera is particularly glorious during cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons.
Tip: The slope leading up to Kiyomizu-dera, called Kiyomizu-zaka, is lined with shops selling sweets, pottery, fans, hats, wind chimes, key chains, and other souvenirs.
Kinkaku-ji
Often called the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji is perhaps the most photogenic temple in Kyoto. Covered in gold leaf (the source of its nickname), the three-story pavilion literally shines, its reflection shimmering on the pond below.
Don’t miss: Notice how each story of the temple differs: the top level reflects traditional Chinese Zen architecture, the middle level is a style common to high-ranking samurai warrior homes, and the ground floor resembles ancient aristocratic houses.
Tip: The Golden Pavilion is most photogenic in the late afternoon, especially in clear weather. Expect crowds no matter when you come, unless you go on a weekday at opening time.
If You Love Buddhist Art
The entrance to Nanzen-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple, is through the San-mon gate, among the most massive and stunning I have seen in Japan. Beyond lies the impressive main hall filled with art, originally a 13th-century imperial villa and now the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism.
Don’t miss: Vivid Buddhist paintings fill the rooms, but my favorite is the sliding door with a painting by Kano Tanyu depicting a tiger drinking water in a bamboo grove. I’m also a fan of the temple’s Zen rock garden, attributed to the famous landscape designer Kobori Enshu.
Tip: Nanzen-ji is famous for its colorful maple leaves in autumn.
Sanjusangendo
Quite simply, Sanjusangendo Temple blows me away. More than 1,000 life-size wooden statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, are lined up in 50 rows, 10 statues deep, all carved from Japanese cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries and covered in gold leaf.
Don’t miss: Sanjusangendo stretches nearly 120 meters wide, making it the longest wooden building in the world. Be sure to walk behind the statues to the back corridor.
Tip: Unfortunately, no photos are allowed here.
If You Love Understated Architectural Elegance
Officially called Jisho-ji, the temple Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) is its popular name, even though there isn’t an ounce of silver on the bare, two-story wooden structure. That’s because when shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built it as a retirement villa in 1482, he planned to cover it in silver in homage to his grandfather’s Golden Pavilion.
Tip: The Philosopher’s Path, which runs past the gate of Ginkaku-ji Temple, stretches for about a kilometer along a canal. Lined with cherry trees, it is spectacular in spring.
Unlike the other temples on my list, Kodai-ji Temple distinctively bears a woman’s touch. It was founded in 1606 by the widow Nene in tribute to her husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a great warrior credited with unifying Japan.
Don’t miss: A memorial hall houses wooden images of the couple (Nene is on the right), as well as a staircase that uses a technique called “makie,” in which gold or silver powder is sprinkled onto still-wet lacquer. What I really love here is the garden dotted with rocks, designed by 16th-century tea master and artist Kobori Enshu.
Tip: Be sure to follow the path that climbs through a bamboo forest; if you’re lucky, you may just have it all to yourself.
If You Can’t Get Enough of Rock or Moss Gardens
Ryoan-ji Temple has the most famous rock garden in Japan. Only 9 meters wide and 25 meters long, it is the epitome of Zen simplicity, just 15 rocks of different sizes arranged on a bed of raked white pebbles.
Tip: Because Ryoan-ji is small and crowds can be large, try to arrive at opening time (8 or 8:30 a.m., depending on the season).
Saihoji
Saihoji is famous for its moss garden, earning it the nickname Kokedera (Moss Temple). More than 120 varieties of moss form a velvety cushion under the groves and around a pond shaped like the Japanese character for “heart.”
Tip: To protect Saihoji’s fragile environment, reservations are required. Visits begin with the copying of sutras to calm the mind, after which you are released into the garden.
If You Live for Shopping
Founded in 794 as a guardian temple for the new imperial city, To-ji Temple is famous for its five-story pagoda, the tallest in Japan and built to withstand earthquakes.
Don’t miss: I’ve timed my visits to Kyoto just so I could browse the flea market here. Held on the 21st of each month, it’s a must for shopping enthusiasts, with more than 1,000 vendors. It’s the largest flea market in Japan, a festive hunting ground for antiques, handicrafts, vintage kimonos, food, plants, and more.
Tip: If you can’t make it to the flea market, a small antique fair is also held here on the first Sunday of each month.
